Postcards From The Khumbu

2009-01-17T05:31:00.000-08:00

4. Tag Kwangde Shar 6093m …Gipfel!!!!!!! Schnell sind wir mit unseren letzten Portion Oatmeal fertig, und steigen an den fixierten Seilen die gestern bereits gekletterten Laengen hinauf. Eine Plattenstelle fordert alles, was meine Trickkiste zu bieten hat. Ich versuche mit den Steigeisen auf “Reibung” anzusteigen, einige Meter unter mir ein Pecker (Birdpick, der mir schon oft ueber schwierige Stellen geholfen hat), rutsche weg und finde Halt mit einem Frontzacken in einem Miniloechlein. Nur die Nerven behalten. Dann ein Aufleger, fuer den ich meinen Handschuh ausziehen muss. Autsch!!! Ein paar weitere Moves und ich erreiche wieder das vermutlich sichere Eis (Snice), in das ich meine Cobras einschlagen kann. Doch leider ist es mehr Schnee als Eis und die Sache gibt fast nach. Nicht nach unten schauen und einfach weiter klettern, hat sich hier bewaehrt. Endlich haben die Platte ueberwunden. Es ist schwer abzuschaetzen, wie weit es noch zum Gipfel ist. Der Hoehenmesser schwankt, auch er ist wohl vom Wind tangiert. Nach einigen noch anspruchsvollen Stellen und Seillaengen erreichen wir um 14.30 Uhr unser lang ersehntes Ziel, den schmalen Gipfel des Kwangde Shar, 6093m. Die Traenen der Freude gefrieren zu Eis in meinem Gesicht. Ich muss schnell einen sicheren Standplatz bauen, denn der Sturm nimmt uns den schmalen aber sicheren Boden unter den Fuessen. Cory kommt nach, und wir fallen uns wortlos in die Arme. Verstaendigen kann man sich bei dem Sturm eh kaum. Und es ist auch nicht noetig, wir sind gluecklich!!!!! Zur gleichen Zeit beobachten uns Meila und Seila aus dem Basecamp mit dem Fernglas (was sie uns nach unserer Heimkehr sagten) und begannen bereits, den Gipfelkuchen zu backen. Doch bis zu unserer endgueltigen Rueckkehr im Thame Valley dauerte es noch etwas. Ich wuenschte, Jen und Audrey waeren jetzt mit uns hier. Wir verweilen nicht lange auf dem Gipfel, noch ein paar Photos bevor wir beginnen, abzuseilen. Das es bei dem Sturm schwierig wird, ohne Probleme den Berg zu verlassen war uns klar. Aber das sich die Seile (vom Wind verblasen) bei jeder Gelegenheit verhaengen, treibt uns fast zum Wahnsinn. Jeder von uns ist einmal gefordert, wieder aufzusteigen und die verhaengten Seile zu “retten”. Entsprechend lange dauert es, bis wir wieder bei Camp 3 sind, unserer Felsluecke. Aber all das sind Kleinigkeiten, die unsere Freude ueber den geschafften Summit nicht trueben. Aber noch sind wir nicht unten, eine weitere unbequeme und kalte Nacht steht uns bevor. Einen Tag nach Vollmond ist die Nacht immer noch taghell und laesst uns lange nicht den gewuenschten Schlaf finden.

Tingling. All I can feel is tingling. The pins and needles ravage my face. My wrists feel heavy and blocked, as though no blood can reach my hands. Everything is swollen…my fingers, face, feet…my brain. I can’t think. The pit that is my stomach feels like a cavern that can never be filled…not with all the food in the world...and yet the thought of eating makes me want to vomit. But at least there is sun.

The morning of the fourth climbing day has brought blue skies and heavy winds. The jet stream, it seams, has not entirely passed. The high clouds are like are like fingernails on a chalkboard…scratching at my nerves.

Ines inquires as to how I am feeling. I figure silence as an answer will suffice. She responds in turn and empties two and a half packs of instant oatmeal into the stove. The smell alone makes me want to puke.

The ritual of packing passes and is only slightly more tolerable this morning because of the sun. I pack as though we will be returning in a few short hours to begin our descent….another extremely naïve move on my part. My optimism is becoming ridiculous at this point…and even I can see the futility in believing in a set “schedule”. Regardless, my hopefulness seems to help us through the monotony of another morning feeling like shit.

We cover the familiar ground quickly, arriving at our high point only an hour after we leave camp. We have one pack with jackets, a litre of water, and some bars. Above us lies a slab void of ice and snow. I offer to lead with false enthusiasm. Ines smiles and grabs the rack and I breath a bit easier. I still feel tingling all over.

The lead takes 40 minutes…it is a tenuous succession of balancey moves protected by bad pitons and a pecker. I hover above the ridge in a state of exhaustion as the wind slams into the N. face and gust upwards, gently tossing me off balance. I wait, hold my breath, suck back Ricola after Ricola, and get colder and colder.

Ines hollers, I take out the belay and balance up the pitch…the pack acting as a sail. The next pitches are only slightly easier…occasionally we are forced to simul over dicey terrain, leaving me covered in a cold sweat. Finally, after six hours, the summit appears only meters away.

And then, with all the anticlimactic energy in the world culminating into a single second, we are on top. It is as if nothing has passed or changed. Nothing about this moment seems distinctly special…nor does it feel as though anything of any significance has occurred. All I feel is exhaustion…I want to eat a cheesburger…I want to drink a beer.

We take some pics, take some footage…cry a bit…and head back into the shade.

The ropes get stuck almost immediately. Then again. Then again. Again. I am climbing back up in the dark to free a line. I am Jack’s cold hard frozen rope. Shoot me. Camp is thirty meters below. The wind blows. It is dark. It is cold. The ropes are stuck again. I want to cry like a bitch.

I am in my sleeping bag curled tightly against Ines. She sleeps. I doze. The moon is one day past full. The wind dies and I finally go to sleep. Tomorrow will be harder still.

Another cramped night ends in the dawn of a clear Himalayan sky. I can almost taste the cheeseburger and beer. My face and hands are more swollen than the morning before, but my nerves are calmer and thus I allow full saturation. I crawl from the bivi and let Ines revel in the “comfort” of the full “king-size” ledge for another minute. The sun feels warmer than the day before and the winds, though still strong, have subsided a bit. Everest and Lhotse loom in the distance, though the sublimation plumes from the previous days are conspicuously absent.

The comfort of the morning makes me forget that we still have hung ropes above us. And it is only seconds after I realize this that I realize we are just over ‘halfway’ done with the climb. It was said best by someone we all respect ;) that “Going up is optional….but coming down is Mandatory” I look down the ridge below and into the dark shroud of the valley bottom. Namche still lingers in morning shade. Ines turns.

Its only 20 minutes before we are dressed and fed…Ines is ascending the hung lines and I am packing. She returns in 15 and rigs an anchor while I shove the remaining awkward bits into the top-heavy pack.

We rap twice into a couloir, then down climb to the mouth of ice drainage. The exhaustion peaks in us simultaneously and we squabble heatedly as we fix a v-thread. “You need a backup…” Followed by, “I have made an ice anchor or two in my life”…. The arguing ends in a tense silence. I bounce on the cord and begin to back down the ice.

Ines’ frantic shouting interrupts my fuming. Startled, I look up to see a mini-fridge sized block of granite tumble, collide with an ice outcrop above, and fly up and outward nearly 50 ft overhead. The soft rattle as it flies through the air is a sobering reminder that we are not any where near ‘safe’. I look up at her with an apologetic glance. This is not the time to be arguing and I know my impatience is unwarranted if not completely selfish.

We continue down two more raps, the last of which finds us bounce testing a single #2 Knifeblade for an anchor. A marginal cam backs it up and I offer to go first. And they say chivalry is dead. But it makes sense…. I am heavier ;) I bounce furiously on the shitty piece…it creaks, flexes, and shudders, but stays put. The rest of the rap is passed holding my breath.

Finally on the ground for the first time in five days, we pack and begin walking down the massive moraine. There is no trail and we begin to weave a seemingly endless maze of frozen rivers, shrubbery, and snow covered boulders.

After hours of meandering through a frozen wasteland, we connect with a summer trail. Namche is only a kilometer from us as the crow flies…but the visual proximity is more torturous than anything else as we are separated by a massive gorge. We begin the excruciating contour around that will connect us to Pade, and then eventually to base camp.

12 hours after we left the ridge camp, we stumble into a dark and lifeless base camp. I scream for “Meatloaf!” and we hear Saila and Maila stir in the cook tent. Its over…five and a half days after we left, we are back…crusty and torn…but home. Sweet lemon tea has never tasted soooooo good.

„Cobra Norte“

WI 5, M8, TD

Thanks so much to all of you who have followed along and been a part of the trip....its been fun and your support is very appreciated!

Die letzte Nacht am Berg…die Energievorräte sind aufgebraucht und ich friere. Wir seilen über die Südostseite ab, bis wir auf der Moräne landen und zu Fuss weiter gehen können. Um weitere „Abseilkathastrophen“ zu verhindern, entscheiden wir uns für den weiteren aber sichereren Abstieg. Unser Weg führt um den gesamten Berg. Es fällt mir schwer, die Balance auf beiden Füssen zu halten, nach Tagen in der Wand. Immer wieder gehen meine Beine ein und ich habe keine Ahnung, wie wir es ins Basislager schaffen sollen. Nach 14 Stunden erreichen wir das Basislager nahe Thame, die Köche schlafen schon aber sind sofort wieder in den „Schuhen“ um uns etwas zu kochen. Sie freuen sich, hatten sich gesorgt um uns. Die Stimmung ist phantastisch, vor mir eine weitere schlaflose Nacht. Zu müde, um Schlaf zu finden, zu sehr haben mich die letzten Tage „beeindruckt“

Eine große Stein- und Eislawine rast auf uns zu, kurz bevor sie uns erreicht…erwache ich von diesem schlechten Traum. Es war nur die Zeltplane, die vom Wind gerüttelt wurde. Wir sind in Sicherheit und auf festem Boden. Ich kann es noch gar nicht glauben.

Freude, Zufriedenheit, Müdigkeit und Hunger………….

„Cobra Norte“

WI 5, M8, TD

Wir haben eine neue Route in den Himalayas geschafft, und die erste Winterbesteigung des Kongde Ri (so nennen die Nepali das gesamte Bergmassiv). Unsere Ermittlungen bestätigen, daß dieser Gipfel erst einmal (1996 von einer französischen Expedition) bestiegen wurde. Ich bin stolz, als erste Frau da oben gewesen zu sein.
Vollzählig und Vollzehig☺

2009-01-16T03:18:00.000-08:00

I am deaf in my left ear. Realizing I can’t hear a thing, I sit up abruptly and smash my head against the ceiling of the shallow cave. Snow crystals fall into my face making me whince. I hate the morning. I feel like my core is being eaten by rats.

Because the floor of the bivi was slightly down hill towards the head, and because I couldn’t roll over or move at all for that matter, fluid pooled in my left ear over night causing temporary, albeit extremely uncomfortable, short term hearing loss. The grogginess of the morning after another long sleepless night has left me agitated and impatient.

I put my frozen boots on and crawl out of the azure tomb to another shady morning on the N. Face of Kwangde. Ines fires up the stove and I begin stuffing crap in the packs. It seems like the only thing that makes the morning any better is to pass it by getting moving as fast as possible. The good news is that the sky is blue and the forecasted peak of the jet stream has passed…ideally we’ll be on the summit this afternoon.

After packing, Ines sets out across the remaining piece of the snow band, leading around the corner and onto the exit snowfield. She disappears from sight around an arête…the doling of the rope slows to a trickle. The wind picks up and I am shivering uncontrollably….again.

Finally, after what feels like a full day, the rope comes taught and I clean the anchor and start climbing. The first half of the pitch is easy. I round the snow arête and find myself massively exposed to the full face. An updraft knocks me off balance slightly as I struggle to regain composure. I think I just soiled myself…wait…no, just sweat….keep climbing.

The next two and a half pitches through the mixed exit snowfield lead us to the ridge. Finally, after four days in the shade, we step into the sun. Ines has a shit- eating grin that stretches from ear to ear and the smile is infectious.

We sit in the sun for an hour and then decide to head for the summit…how naïve to think that would work out so easily.

The ridge turns out to be a maze of mixed terrain just as hard as the face. Progress is slow and it is only two pitches higher before we make the decision to bail for the night…its nearing 5:00 p.m. and the usable light will be gone in 45 minutes. The Ramen beckons and we retreat to the point where we reached the ridge only hours before…descending again into the shade but certain that tmrw will bring warmer temps, sunny climbing, and a summit.

Ines finds a place between two rocks that seems sheltered from the wind and throws the gear form the packs. She cooks while I work on home design…oh so domestic of us.

The night brings little sleep as the effects of deep dehydration and altitude begin to set in. The morning can’t come soon enough.

3.Tag Wir finden keine realistische Moeglichkeit, einen eigenen geradlinigen Abschluss unserer neuen Route durch die steile Headwall des Kwangde Shar zu machen. Ausschliesslich kompakter Granit ohne jede Spour von Eis. Um Hand (ohne Handschuhe) an den Fels zu legen, ist es zu kalt. Wir muessen sehr sparsam mit unseren Energiehaushalt umgehen. Nicht umsonst haben sich Jen und Audrey bereits bei unserem ersten Versuch die Zehen angefroren. Unserer heutiger Tag fuehrt uns ueber Rampensysteme nach links, zum Ostgrat. (Ausstieg der Franzosen 1996). Wir koennen die Sonne fast erahnen und klettern zuegig ueber “snice” Felder (wir geben dem Eis hier den Namen “Snice”, da es sich aus einer kompakten Mischung aus Snow und Ice handelt) nach links. Haben so viel gefroren, die vergangenen Tage, das wir uns ein paar waermende Strahlen verdient haben. Cory und ich erreichen den Felsgrat kurz nach Mittag auf einer Hoehe von 5790m), doch leider ist die Sonne schon Richtung Westen unterwegs. Aber der Blick auf die andere Bergseite tut gut. Finden eine Biwakluecke zwischen zwei Granitbloecken, deponieren hier unsere Rucksaecke und klettern weiter Richtung Gipfel. Der Grat steilt sich auf und noetigt uns immer wieder, in die kalte und windige Nordwand auszuweichen. Auch hier finden wir wenig Eis, das uns zuegig voranbringt. Wir spueren die Hoehe und fuehlen uns dehydriert. Gegen 14 Uhr erkennen wir, das es fuer den heutigen Tag zwar moeglich ist, den Gipfel zu erreichen, aber beim Abstieg (Abseilen) in die Dunkelheit kommen wuerden. Der Wind legt zu, die Sturmboen bringen uns immer wieder aus dem Gleichgewicht. Unsere Entscheidung, auf 5900m umzukehren und morgen nach dem Sonnenaufgang wieder zu versuchen, ist schnell getroffen. Beide sind wir ganz der gleichen Meinung. Wir fixieren die Halbseile, um morgen frueh schnell daran aufzusteigen. Zurueck bei unserer Biwakluecke, schmelzen wir Schnee, um uns mit unsererer allabendlichen Nudelsuppe zu staerken. Die Luecke bietet wieder kein Platz fuers Zelt und so nutzen wir es wenigstens als Biwaksack. Fast keine Luft zum atmen, zu zweit eingeklemmt zwischen zwei Bloecken, versuchen wir Kopftalwaerts ein paar Stunden Schlaf zu finden. Doch der Mond scheint uns unerbittlich ins Gesicht. Ich denke an meine Freunde, die zum gleichen Zeitpunkt beim Ouray Ice Festival in Colorado um die besten Plaetze kaempfen. Gedanken an die anschliessende Party verdraenge ich. Die Frage, warum tue ich mir das an, stelle ich mir gar nicht erst. Wenn man beginnt, alles in Frage zu stellen, hat man keine Chance. Der Kopf ist hier der absolut entscheidende Faktor. Noch fuehle ich ein wenig Kraft, es zu schaffen. Ich brauche Cory nicht fragen, wie es ihm geht. Auch er macht einen erschoepften Eindruck, aber unsere positiven Einstellung, morgen den Gipfel zu erreichen, setzt etwas uebrige Energie frei.

2009-01-15T10:02:00.000-08:00

The sound of automatic machine gun fire rattles me from a shallow slumber. I am sure the rock falling is aimed directly at my head. I picture the projectile stone tearing through the fabric of the tent-made-bivi sack and puncturing my skull…but it impacts ten feet to the left. I let out a sigh of relief at peek from behind the false security of the sleeping bags.

It must be nearing daylight…the light outside seems to be brighter than before. I am disappointed to find the nearly full moon shining down on me. I ask Ines for the time and she groans. Its only 11:30 p.m. We’ve been at the bivi for only five hours and we have another six to shiver through before we’ll leave.

Our perch for the first night is little more than a glorified bucket seat carved from the snice. I dug for hours as what would be the floor continued to collapse. Finally, Ines looked at me and told me to sit and eat…the seat I had managed to carve would have to suffice.

Day two on the route started with predawn shivers. The two packs of instant oatmeal split between us was only enough to make me hungrier. We brewed, again in silence, and then began to pack. The night behind us was my worst bivi to date and the pain in my back was a constant reminder of just how ridiculous it had been.

Ines started the day with a 55m mixed pitch that brought us to a long traverse. I took the lead and dragged us across 55 degree slopes of mixed terrain that ended abruptly at a snow arête. The cotton-mouth was worse than the day before, but now it was caused by the onset of dehydration…not pure nerves.

Ines and I swung leads for the next 300 climbing meters, until finally, I gave into the the role of being the pack mule…understanding that she was not only better, but far faster on technical ground. We climbed a ramp that lead us to a blind rock corner, then around it, and finally into a small snowfield that looked like it might offer a “nice” home for the night. We had been climbing for ten hours and covered only 300 vertical meters of terrain. It didn’t matter though…we were cold and tired, and ready to try to sleep off the fatigue from the previous night.

I climbed into the middle of the feature and settled into a natural depression in the 65 degree ice. Ines followed and immediately began to brew while I set to work on home renovations.
An hour and a half later, I had made about as much progress as a five year old doing a calculous problem. Again, Ines urged me to sit and drink. I did.

We crawled into the half snow cave and dozed for an hour before every extremity on both of our bodies fell asleep and the pins and needles took over. The comfort I had hoped for wasn’t going to come tonight…

Cory

2.Tag

Unser Zelt klebt uns wie Ballast an den Fersen. Nirgens bietet sich eine Plattform dafuer. Dabei waere ein kleiner Kaelteschutz nicht grad stoerend. Die Wand zeigt sich steiler als erwartet (da sind Cory s Bemuehungen, eine Hoehle ins Eis zu hacken fast schon wieder zum schmunzeln; auch wenn uns das Lachen fuer ein paar Tage im Gesicht erfrieren soll). Der Westwind setzt uns mit derartigen Boen immer wieder ordentlich zu. Ausserdem habe ich Angst, uns koennte ein wichtiges Teil davonfliegen. Bin noch traumatisiert von meiner Rucksackaktion mit den Maedels. Mir ist absolut bewusst, das auch nur der Verlust des Feuerzeuges gravierende Folgen haben koennte (Kocher!!)
Die Kletterei macht mehr und mehr Spass- was damit zu tun hat, das die Nerven sich an die spartanische Absicherung und das sehr duenne Eis gewoehnt haben, ausserdem ist der Fels ist gut zu uns. Eines kann ich mir nicht abgewoehnen, das fest aufeinanderbeissen der Zaehne (so laesst sich die Kaelte besser ertragen, und mein Zahnarzt hat auch was davon indem er die zerbissenen Inlets wieder ersetzen kann. Das mit der Zahnhygiene haben wir eh laengst aufgegeben. Der Inhalt der kleinen Zahnpastatube ist staendig gefroren. Was soll man denn noch alles am Koerper tragen? Batterien, Gaskartuschen...Satphone haben wir ja keines mehr. Um so abenteuerlicher erscheint mir unser "Trip", ohne jede Kommunikation zur Aussenwelt. Mir ist bewusst, das absolut nichts schiefggehen darf. Unser Basislagerteam sieht die Wand zwar und wir fuehlen uns nicht so ganz allein, jedoch sind die Dimensionen im Himalaya immer wieder truegerisch. Ein Mensch in der Wand ist selbst mit Fernglas fast nicht zu erkennen. Unsere Idee war, die Headwall zu durchbrechen...um unserer neuen Liene einen gebuehrenden Abschluss zu gewaehren. So wie es aber ausschaut, ist da ueber 250m kein Eis in den Strukturen. Wir werden sehen, wie wir uns morgen fuehlen. Heute zeigt der Hoehenmesser 5580m.
Viele Gruesse an alle Leser- bis morgen, und ein dickes Bussi an meinen Manu, der mir sehr fehlt- aber der mich auch bald wieder hat. Ines

Liftoff

2009-01-14T02:05:00.000-08:00

Back in base camp, its surprising to feel how comfortable a warm dry sleeping bag can feel. There is no longer the scum of ramen noodles and the grit of melted snow floating in the water…and going to the bathroom requires little more than a hike to the nearest tree. Needless to say, we are back and safe. But to tell a little of our story…

Its been said that waiting is the hardest part. I’d have to agree. It was only by chance that I was given the opportunity to take part in climbing on this trip…so to shift my mind from work mode to climbing mode took a day. But once the decision was made, the anticipation began as it always does…as a cold hard lump in my throat.

For Ines, the decision was harder. She had already been climbing, already suffered the cold, and wasted herself in the pursuit. She was tired, the others were packing to leave, and the choice to stay and try again was daunting. Plus, she missed the Manu and home.

Thankfully, a friend of hers, Simone Moro, dropped by base camp. We accompanied him and his climbing partner , Denis, to Namche for a night outside of the shadow of the face. During the walk, Simone offered some seasoned advice which basically boiled down to, “If you leave now, you won’t be happy because you won’t have given it your all…stay and try again….” That was all it took.

Three days later and we were walking, laden with enough crap for five days of climbing. With every step that brought us closer to the wall, the lump in my throat grew. Setting up camp in the wind was a chore that almost cost us the tent. We went back and forth over what to ditch and what to bring, we ate speck and cheese by the biteful…we slept fitfully.

The morning came as it always does here: cold and dark. The brewing was done in silence of anticipation and we packed with numb fingers. And then the angst dissolved into movement. Finally, after what seemed like an eternity of sitting, watching, waiting, and thinking, we were climbing.

Ines took the first block…a traversing ledge into three short but hard pitches of detached neve. The sounds the snow made were less than reassuring…a hollow thud resonating beneath the surface after every swing. Needless to say, screws were useless. As she carefully weaved her way through random blotches of near vertical snice, I sucked on Ricola after Ricola, like a baby sucking a binky for comfort. The last pitch in her block kicked back to 85 degrees and the neve disappeared. I watched as she hammered in a Pecker, inched up over steep slabby granite, and finally found a blind cam placement. I realized I was holding my breath…I let it go and sucked wind like I had just sprinted a mile. Carefully, she moved up a crack with her hands and tried to paste her crampons on a blank slate. They skated, she pulled, and then she hollered as her tool reconnected with something like ice.

I took over and lead us through considerably less serious terrain. Some thin ice, some snow and mixed, and stopped one pitch shy of the most uncomfortable bivi ever…

Cory

Letzte Nacht bebte die Erde, eine riesengrosse Stein und Eislawine raste auf uns. Ich schreckte aus dem Schlaf auf, und stellte fest, es war nur ein Windstoss, der an die Zeltwaende ruettelte. Sichtlich gezeichnet von den letzten 5 Tagen in der Kwangde Sha Nordwand erreichten wir gestern nacht das Basecamp, voellig erschoepft aber gesund. Es gibt so viel zu erzaehlen, das wir heute beim ersten Klettertag beginnen. Wir hoffen Ihr verfolgt den Blog in den naechsten Tagen, damit Ihr den Ausgang unserer Expedition erfahrt.

8. Januar

Ich sah meine Chance noch immer am Kwangde, sogar mehr denn je, nachdem wir Simone Moro getroffen hatten. Er hatte recht, es st so leicht, Ausreden zu finden…Wind, Kaelte, mein Manu, der zu hause wartet und die Muedigkeit die mir noch in den Knochen sitzt von unserem Versuch am LHO. Ich verstehe die Maedels Jen und Audrey, beide haben Ihre Gruende, nach Canada zurueckzugehen. Ich selber bin froh, mit unserem Photograph Cory Richards einen zwar nicht weiblichen:) aber vertrauensvollen Partner fuer eine neue Route am Kwangde gefunden zu haben. Meiner Familie gilt Dank fuer das Verstaendnis um eine Verlaengerung.

Wir packen unsere Rucksaecke und nehmen den Zustieg in Angriff, 1400 Hoehenmeter vom Basislager aus bis zum Wandfuss. Unser schweres Gepaeck zwingt uns fast in die Knie. Wir planen 5 Tage, muessen aber unbedingt unser Gear reduzieren. Sonst kommen wir nicht vorwaerts. Auf warme Kleidung koennen wir nicht gross verzichten, uns erwarten laut Karl Gabl bis - 25 Grad und Jetstream bis 100km. Da der Wind in dieser Jahreszeit normal in Nepal ist, warten wir nicht laenger und versuchen das Beste daraus zu machen. Der Himmel zeigt strahlendes Blau, kaum zu glauben, das es in Gipfelnaehe so windig sein soll. Nur die Wolkenfahne am Gipfel des Everest verraeht, das es tatsaechlich so ist. Und Karl hat sich bisher selten mit dem Wetter geirrt. Nun, am Wandfuss angekommen, Zelt aufgebaut, Zelt vom Wind weggerissen, wieder abgestiegen, erneuter Versuch eine Bleibe zu finden gelingt.

9. Januar

Leider ist es zu kalt, um vor dem Sonnenaufgang zu starten. Also nutzen wir die 10 Stunden Tageslicht. Wir steigen ein, unserer Linie ist die offensichtliche Schlange, die bisher wohl noch keine Begehung hat. (s. Topo). Das Eis ist duenn und schwierig abzusichern. Eine passable senkrechte Mixedpassage fordert mich heraus, zwischen und waehrend den starken Windboehen alles zu geben. M13 ist mir leichter gefallen. Hier in der Hoehe faellt aber alles etwas schwerer. Es gelingt mir, die Stelle “frei” zu ueberwinden. Wir kommen voran und finden einen Absatz, auf dem wir mehr sitzend als liegend biwakieren koennen. Nicht daran zu denken, das unser Zelt hier Platz haben wuerde. Die Nacht ist unerbittlich, kaum ein Auge zugetan, zitternd vor Kaelte warten wir aufs Tageslicht…aber schoen ist es so hoch oben in der Nordwand. Mit Blick im Mondschein auf all die grossen Berge dieser Welt.

Liebe Gruesse Eure Ines , die nun wieder ausruhen muss☺

A New Day, A New Plan

2009-01-07T02:08:00.000-08:00

Make your jokes....laugh it up. Yup, thats right...me, Cory, the photographer, is now taking a seat on the "women's" expedition. For those of you who don't know...I am not a woman (Ines insisted that I post a picture because "Cory could be a girls name for sure...") I thought about changing the title on the blog to 'Kwangde Lho Bi-sexual Expedition 2008-09'...but I thought that might invite a barage of sh*t for which I am unprepared.

As it has happened, the clocks for Audrey, Jen, and Chris have run out and the time to return to comfy beds and hot showers is rapidly approaching. Ines and I however, have a bit more flexibility and thus have changed our tickets back to Germany in order to have another go at the face.

The line we are looking at is a big question mark so we are taking five days of food and doing our best to psyche up for long nights in the cold and short days in the shade. Wish us luck!

For now however, my fingers are frozen and I need to return to the relative comfort of the mess tent in order to avoid hypothermia...

More soon.

An Attempt

2009-01-05T20:52:00.000-08:00

Versuch am Kwangde Lho

Attempt on Kwangde Lho

Hallo aus Namche Bazzar, gestern trafen Simone Moro (Italien) und Denis Urubko (Kazachstan) bei uns im Basislager ein. Sie versuchen die erste Winterbesteigung des Makalu und sind derzeit unterwegs auf einer Trekking Akklimatisationstour. Wir sind Ihrer Einladung nach Namche gern gefolgt. Die letzten Tage haben alles von uns abverlangt und verliefen wie folgt.

Hello from Namche Bazzar, yesterday our friends Simone Moro (Italy) and Denis Urubko (Kazhakstan) passed our Basecamp. These guys are going to climb the Makalu (first winter ascent) and doing their aclimatisation on a trekking right now. They invited us, to have some rest in Namche after our attempt.

Gemaess den eher schwierigen Eisbedingungen am Kwangde Lho entschieden wir uns fuer eine Kombination bereits bestehender Routen, am rechten Teil der Nordwand. (s. skizze) Hier war das Eis zwar auch sehr duenn und schien schwierig abzusichern, aber das sollte im Anbetracht der sehr kalten Temperaturen (-20 Grad) in einem ueberschaubaren Zeitrahmen moeglich sein.

The ice conditions seemed to be hard, less ice and tricky protection. That’s why we decided to climb a combination of 2 already excisting routes. (see the picture)

Das war unsere Idee, wir planten 3 Tage fuer die Wand.

That was our idea and we planed 3 days for the climb.

Am Neujahrstag verliessen wir das Basislager, in Begleitung von Chris Alstrin unserem Kameramann. Der 5 stuendige Zustieg zum Wandfuss war diesmal einfacher, da wir das meiste Material bereits am Einstieg (5100m) deponiert hatten.

We left the Basecamp on the New Years Day, in company of Chris Alstrin, our cameraman. The 5 hours approach seemed to be easier than last time, all the gear was already at the Base of the climb at 5100m.

Am 2. Januar beendete der Wecker um 4.30 Uhr unsere schlaflose Nacht. Um 6.00 Uhr stiegen Jen, Audrey und ich in die Wand ein und arbeiteten uns Seillaenge fuer Seillaenge hoeher. Nach zwoelf Stunden errichteten wir einen optimalen Platz fuer unser Zelt, zu dritt fanden wir Platz darin, in dem eigentlich fuer 2 Personen vorgesehenen Light House Tent. Ein weitere schlaflose Nacht ging zu ende.

At January 2nd the alarm finished the sleepless night at 4.30. We started climbing at 6 o’clock, trying to be fast but carefully on the thin layers of ice. After 12 hours we arrived at a perfect spot for our camp. We spent the night with 3 in a 2 person tent.

Am 3. Januar stiegen wir mit weniger schweren Rucksaecken weiter, denn unser Plan sah vor, den Gipfel und den Abstieg zurueck ins Hochlager (5600m) an einem Tag zu schaffen.
Leider wurden die Bedingungen immer schwieriger, das Eis duenner, der Fels bruechiger.

Wir stiegen trotzdem weiter und erreichten um 14 Uhr den hoechsten Punkt der Nordwand auf 5850m. Wir froren, aber waren begeitert von dem Blick auf die Suedseite. Hier entschieden wir uns fuer den schmerzhaften Rueckzug, denn sonst wuerden wir in der Nacht abseilen muessen. Und das waere bei den niedrigen Temperaturen recht gefaehrlich. Es fehlten uns noch ca, 300 Hoehenmeter zum Gipfel, auch hier sehr wenig Eis.

On Januar 3rd we climbed with less weight and left the camp behind. The climbing was hard, loose rock and almost no ice.

ANYWAYS, we reached the highest point on the northface at 2 p.m. (5850m) Way to late to summit that day. With an incredible view into the southface and the first sun since days. We had to bail, hard but the only right decision in terms of time. Beside time, Audrey mentioned first problems with her toes...they were turning blue.

Es wuerde zu lange dauern. Ich war verzweifelt, so nahe dem Ziel umzukehren. Zurueck im Hochlager in der Nacht stellte Audrey erste Schwierigkeiten mit Ihrer Zehe fest. Eine hoffentlich nur leichte Erfrierung. Wir versuchten am 4. Januar zuegig abzuseilen, um der Kaelte zu entkommen.

We abseiled down on January 4th , and arrived to the Advanced Base Camp to see a very angry Cory hiking up. He said he underststands his mother better now because he worried so much. We all arrived at basecamp at dark to a delicious "almost summit" cake from our cook team.

Am abend erreichten wir das Basislager, alle waren froh uns wiederzusehen, da wir seit Tagen nicht mit unseren besorgten Freunden Chris und Cory in Kontakt sein konnten.

Der weitere Plan ist noch offen, wir ruhen uns jetzt aus und hoffen auf eine weitere Chance.
Ein herzliches Dankeschoen an Karl Gabl, der uns mit dem aktuellen Wetterbericht unterstuetzt.

We all are recovering from the last days right now. Not sure yet, what we are going to do. We hope for an other chance.

Thanks to Karl Gabl, "The Weather Guru", for the WEATHER SUPPORT.

I.P.

Climbing?

2009-01-05T20:44:00.000-08:00

December 31

Apologies for the lack of correspondence…our charging system is, well, less than perfect. In fact, it just flat doesn’t work. So, base camp life has been reduced to what base camps used to be…quiet, free of electronic bothers like the Internet, subject to nothing except weather, rest and relaxation.

Base camp is comfy, but its charms last only so long before the desire to move becomes overwhelming. That said, it wasn’t very long before we needed to feed the rat…get up, get out, and do something.

Two days after our arrival in BC, we decided to go for a “warm-up” route that climbs to the col between Kwangde Nup & Kwangde Lho. Packing enough gear and food for three days, we found our way up the moraine and settled in for a decidedly uncomfortable night on frozen dirt. We planned to climb the following two days, but were surprised the following morning when the remainder of the approach took three hours!

After a quick throw of the fingers to decide who would lead the “first” pitch, Audrey and Ines set off to fix a line to speed progress the following morning. However, we were surprised again to find that the “first” pitch was in fact nearly 100 m. Everything here is bigger than it looks…and takes a lot longer than one might think.

After another extremely cold night on 5mm foam, we decided that we would leave the high camp in place and return after a few days of rest. So, here we are…resting and enjoying the last day of the year in style…complete with a warm shower and a couple glasses of bad wine.

Climbing tomorrow…we hope.

Best wishes and a happy new year!

Merry Christmas

2008-12-24T20:10:00.000-08:00

Merry Christmas from the Khumbu!!!

We like hiking, but we love climbing.

Behind us a beautiful 2 and half days trekking up to the Cho la Pass at 5400m, scenic views to all this beautiful mountains like Ama Dablam, Cholatse and the Everest. We feel well acclimatized for the Kwangde Lho. Since the ice did not appear as good, as we expected on any of this great mountains, we decided on our original objective.

With hurting legs and positive expectations to our trip, we celebrated Christmas last night in Namche, with Speck from Germany and a “yak cream cheese rum cake” from the staff.

Today is our final departure to the base camp near Thame. We understand the difficulties ahead, but we are looking forward to putting forth our best effort to climb a new route on the Kwangde Lho North Face. The weather is beautiful and the cold temperatures did arrived, brrrrrr.

You will get more information from the team in a couple of days.

A Special huge hug to the Manu and a Kiss from your mum.

I.P.

2008-12-22T00:13:00.001-08:00

Kathmandu was great but we were all pretty happy to take the 19 passenger plane that brought us to the quieter side of Nepal. What can be said about the landing in Lukla?!? The landing strip of about 250 meters long ends in a mountain wall!! I'm not usually scared with airplanes but, let me tell you that this time I thought that was it!!!

Anyway.....here we are now in Namche Bazar. The feeling of being in the middle of those giant mountains and to look into the eyes of the Nepali people is hard to describe with words. All I've seen, read or heard about this place before coming here is nothing compared to how great Nepal actually is.

Ok.....let's talk about climbing now!! Unfortunately, it's warmer here than usual and the mountains conditions are not as great as we were hoping for. None of the ice lines around Namche are possible to climb.

On Sunday, we hiked up towards Thame to have a look at Kwangde Lho and Teng Kangpoche but alot of the ice is missing on both of them to try a new route attempt.

Happily, our little group stays positive and we believe that we're going to find a perfect line that is just waiting for us around the corner!! There's so much possibilities.

So.....the plan for the next days is to keep exploring and we will let you know when we find our perfect match.

A.G.

Kathmandu

2008-12-18T06:20:00.000-08:00

As the plane descended into Katmandu, we could see Mt. Everest standing proud on the horizon. It felt like we coasted over the neighbouring farmers fields for a very long time before finally touching down on the runway. The familiar smells of third world welcomed us to this friendly and peaceful country. We were capivated by the sights of the Hindu and Buddist temples, and fascinated by the people.

Bargaining is an art we are clumsily experimenting with. I have false pride when I think I have talked down the 12 year old boy who isn’t at school because he is working me over, then 5 minutes later I get offered the same item at ½ the negotiated price.

Dawa is our friend and local contact has already proven to be very helpful, organized and informative, especially when he ordered the Everest beer and took us for authentic Nepalise dining with dancers and live music.

Tomorrow we fly to Lukla, and by the weekend we will go to basecamp to scout our route. We are all feeling very grateful to be in Nepal and with such an energized and talented group of people.

J.O.

Abreise ins Khumbu

2008-12-12T13:12:00.000-08:00

Lieber Besucher unseres Blogs.....Die letzten Gepaeckstuecke wandern gerade in die Rucksaecke und die Weihnachtsgeschenke fuer meinen Sohn Emanuel sind verpackt. Wir feiern "unser" Weihnachten vor meiner Abreise in wenigen Tagen. Am Dienstag, den 16.12.08 brechen wir endlich ins Khumbu auf. Jen und Audrey aus Canada werde ich in Kathmandu treffen, nach einer langen Zeit des Planens und Skypens, des Listen schreibens und telefonierens. Ich freue mich so, die Girls wiederzusehen. Wir werden begleitet von den Amerikanern Cory Richards (Photograph) und Chris Alstrin (Kamera).
Unser Plan sieht vor, einen Tag in Kathmandu zu verbringen, die Stadt zu sehen und letzte Einkaeufe zu machen. Am 18.12. geht unser Flug nach Lukla. Von da aus melden wir uns wieder.
Liebe Gruesse Eure Ines

2008-11-13T07:01:00.000-08:00

Rising southwest of Namche Bazaar in the shadow of Mt. Everest, above the Bhote Kosi River, Kwangde Lho, also referred to as Kongde Ri or Kwande, forms an impressive multi-summited ridge on the eastern end of the Lumding Himal. The mountain's northern flank rises as an ominous barrier featured by several steep ridges, buttresses, and ice/mixed lines. Rising to 6.187 meters, Kwangde Lho is an impressive yet oft overlooked technical alpine objective.

With much excitement and tremendous appreciation for all of our sponsors and the support we've received, the three of us are looking forward to our departure for the Khumbu region on December 16th. We invite you to join us on our trip as we try to establish a new line on this impressive Himalayan wall, as we will be posting frequent dispatches from the field brought to you in part by the imagery of Cory Richards and film/video of Chris Alstrin.

Thanks so much to all of you who have helped make this expedition a reality...including friends, family and sponsors alike.

More soon!